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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.