Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
